Time becomes irrelevant. I wrote 5th August (must have been October) 1992. Kalash. Bumbaret. Pakistan.

“Some days I wonder why I am still here…other days I remember! Today was fantastic. Simple, but fantastic!

This morning I had pancakes, fruit and CREAM…courtesy of Cathy.

Talking with Cathy dura baba,. She is 6 months pregnant….wonderful automatic ‘waver’ of a son to be!

Then we walked along the village-side, aqueduct, canal to Bitreck and Broon. Cathy, Jerry, Robin and I. Beautiful autumn views. Incredible grapevines and ladders cut from whole trees.

Ladders cut from whole trees.

Tea at Palace Hotel….(there was this mad guy with make-up and a big ‘LOVE’ pendant!)

Search for the Kalash temple.

Met a Kalash friend who took us there.

Now I understand a lot more……

All the afore mentioned ‘gods/spirits’ have separate villages…..and separate places to go to sacrifice goats.

Mahdeau ‘lives’ in Bitreck (a small local district).

Mahadeau in Bitreck is large and enclosed by a wall. Long benches all around. Special seats for Krakal, Bitreck and Broon. The ‘alter’ has some goat’s horns, 4 carved goat’s heads and a lot of blood stains to mark it. The 4 goats represent Mahadeau’s chariot, with which  he rides the sky. A little blood on the fire from the ears of a goat.

There are other outdoor Mahadeau. The place of Koshumi is close. A large open rock face….with no boundaries.

We ate an amazing fruit ‘cul’ and loads of walnuts.

In Bitreck (Hun) there is another place. Jastak with a small area with many carvings to mark the ‘alter’. Mainly goats, but also the sun/moon/stars symbolised by (see illustration)

Sketches of carvings on Kalash sacred space. Goat and, what I believe to be, sun/moon/stars symbol.

Sketches of carvings on Kalash sacred space. Goat and, what I believe to be, sun/moon/stars symbol.

We danced in the space and got severely told off by a passing Kalash woman.

Apart from the unmarked open air places, the areas seem to be quite large flattened, ‘floored’, enclosed spaces with drawings, paintings or carvings and goats horns to mark the sacrificial areas.

After we walked slowly back. Apples and children.

I had a flute lesson and found a boy who agreed to make me one. (Sher Wally Khan Jr.)

Then met up with Martin, my Canadian friend’s friend, who took us (John and I) to Mahadeau in Krakal and then back for a joint and coffee! at his house. Nice guy. He is planning to go to Canada with his friend someday….he even has a viza and a passport! I think it would be an incredible experience for him.

My Kalash seems to have improved vastly in one day! A bo mun day!

Now very tired.”


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